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Printables & DIY

How to Make Chess Pieces: Proportions First, Then the Tools

Thirty-two blanks, one height ladder, and a knife or a lathe. Here's the order to do it in.

You make chess pieces by shaping 32 blanks to one fixed set of proportions, and the simplest version takes a saw, a knife, and a basswood block. Proportions come first, tools second: a king around 3.75 inches tall with a base near 1.7 inches, then a clear step down through queen, bishop, knight, rook and pawn. Get that ladder right and even a rough set plays fine.

Skip it and you own 32 pieces that look like chess and feel wrong in the hand.

The height ladder that makes a homemade set playable

US Chess guidance puts king height between 3.375 and 4.5 inches, squares between 2 and 2.5 inches, and the king's base at roughly 75 to 80 percent of the square. Work backward from those numbers. On a 2.25 inch square, 80 percent is 1.8 inches, so a 1.7 inch king base leaves a little daylight between pieces on a crowded board. Here's the ladder I work to.

Piece Height (in) Base (in) What trips people up
King 3.75 1.70 The cross has to survive handling
Queen 3.50 1.60 Crown points snap if you cut them thin
Bishop 2.75 1.40 The slit needs a clean saw kerf
Knight 2.60 1.30 The only piece you can't turn
Rook 2.10 1.40 Crenellations chip without a file
Pawn 1.90 1.20 Make eight, and make them match

Keep the pawn well below the rook. If a pawn's head sits level with a rook's battlements, tired club players grab the wrong piece at speed, and I've watched that argument run for ten minutes on a Tuesday night. Before I cut anything, I sketch the profile of each piece at full size on paper so I can hold the silhouette against the blank. A set of side-on profiles is also the whole method behind chess pieces drawing, and it's worth an evening before it's worth an hour at the saw.

Turning the set on a lathe: 28 of the 32 pieces

Spindle turning is how the Staunton originals were made and it's how you'll make most of yours. Twenty-eight of the 32 pieces come off the lathe: 16 pawns, 4 rooks, 4 bishops, 2 queens, 2 kings. The four knights are carved.

Buy 2x2 stock in 24 inch lengths. Eight pawns at 1.9 inches each, plus a parting kerf of about 1/8 inch per piece, eats roughly 16 inches, so one length covers a full side of pawns with room to spare. Round the blank with a roughing gouge, set your base diameters with a parting tool, cut beads and collars with a skew, and use V-cuts for the rings that separate the head from the stem. Those four cuts build 90 percent of a Staunton piece.

The knight is where first sets fall apart. Band saw a profile on two faces, then work it with a knife and files. My first one looked like a duck. If you want the whole sequence laid out slowly, carving chess pieces covers the knife work in more depth than a lathe ever will.

Hand carving with a knife and square blanks

Basswood is the wood to learn on. Buy 1.5 x 1.5 x 3 inch blanks, which is enough stock for a pawn or a bishop with a little waste, and a sloyd knife with a 3 inch blade. Work from the base up so you always have a square end to clamp, and strop the blade every 20 minutes or so; a dull knife tears basswood instead of slicing it.

Sand 220 grit, then 320, then stop. Over-sanding rounds the crisp edges that make a piece read as a bishop instead of a pawn. And keep in mind basswood dents, so a knife-carved set wants a felted base and a soft bag rather than a wooden box rattling around in a car trunk.

A scroll saw with compound cutting does the same job faster: glue two perpendicular patterns to a square blank, cut both profiles, and the waste falls away into a finished 3D piece. That's the method in the Fox Chapel book below, and it's how a lot of people get from zero to a full set in a winter.

Wood choice, weight, and a finish that survives club night

Maple for the light side, walnut for the dark, and basswood for the set you'll ruin while learning. Maple holds a crisp collar; red oak chips at the thin sections and dulls a knife in minutes, so leave it at the lumber yard. Walnut costs more than maple by the board foot, which is the price of a set you'll keep.

On weight, boxwood is denser than maple and a boxwood set feels heavier in the hand at the same dimensions. You can't match that by carving alone, so don't try. Finish with mineral oil and beeswax for a matte feel, or three thin coats of wipe-on poly if the set will live in a club bag. Glue 1 inch adhesive felt dots to the bases after the last coat dries, and trim them flush with the base edge. There's more on weighting and finishing in diy chess pieces if you want to go further than oil and wax.

Paper, foam board, and a printer: the routes that take one evening

Not everyone wants a winter project. Print a sheet of piece profiles on 110 lb cardstock, glue two layers back to back with the printed side out, cut them, and glue a penny under each base for weight. A single sheet gets you all 32. Foam board works the same way and stands up better to kids.

A 3D printer gets you a real set in about 12 hours of machine time. Print at 0.2 mm layers with PLA at 15 percent infill, keep the pieces flat-bottomed so nothing needs supports, and print the knights lying on their side with the mane facing up. Settings, file sources and what actualy looks good off a hobby printer are covered in 3d printed chess pieces.

The board your set will live on

Square size decides everything. A 3.75 inch king wants 2.25 inch squares; a 3 inch king wants 2 inch squares. Do the arithmetic before you cut a board: eight squares at 2.25 inches is 18 inches of playing surface, and a 2 inch border on each side gives you a 22 inch board that fits a normal table without crowding the clock and the coffee.

Get the squares right and the pieces will look better than they are. Get them wrong and a good set of pieces looks like toys on a tablecloth. The full build, including the border and the underside, is in how to make a chess board.

If you need a set to learn on

Buying a plain set first is not cheating, it's how you learn what your own pieces should feel like in the hand.

Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make: 9 Complete Designs for the Scroll Saw

Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make: 9 Complete Designs for the Scroll Saw

by Fox Chapel Publishing
  • Used Book in Good Condition
Check price on Amazon

is the one I'd point a scroll saw beginner at, since it covers compound sawing on square blanks and nine complete patterns rather than vague encouragement.

Cut one pawn first

Make a single pawn this week from whatever wood you have, measure it against the ladder above, and carry it in your pocket for a few days. If it feels good at 1.9 inches with a 1.2 inch base, you've got your reference piece and the other 31 become repetition.

Questions people ask me

What wood is best for making chess pieces?

Maple and walnut are the two workhorses because they take a clean edge and hold a crisp collar. Basswood is the better learning wood since it cuts easily and costs little, though it dents. Skip red oak; the open grain chips at the thin points on a bishop's mitre.

How tall should a handmade chess king be?

US Chess guidance puts king height between 3.375 and 4.5 inches, with squares from 2 to 2.5 inches. For a first set, 3.5 to 3.75 inches is a safe target. Then keep the king's base around 75 to 80 percent of your square size.

Can I make chess pieces without a lathe?

Yes. A knife and square basswood blanks will get you a full set, just slower, and a scroll saw with compound cutting will do it faster. Paper or foam board pieces take an evening and play well enough to learn the moves on.

Thomas Reed writes every guide on this site. Spec sheets, owner reviews and forum threads get read before anything earns a spot, and the one-star reviews get read first. How I pick products.